Friday, January 20, 2012

Comandante Compañero Ernesto Guevara

He thought one has to be protected from the traps of greed without ever lowering the guard. When he was president of Cuba's National Bank, he signed Che on the bills to mock the money. For the love of people, he despised material things. The world is sick, he believed, where having and being mean the same. He never kept anything for himself, nor asked for anything in return. To live is to give, he thought, so he gave.

El Che was a man whose spirit lives and touches the souls of many around the world; and in Cuba, he lives as a symbol of freedom and strength. El Che was a man who said what he thought and did what he said. If you ask me, that is remarkable and very rare in a world where words hardly ever meet with actions. He defied power and money and risked his life in many occasions pursuing his ideals; reason why many consider him to be reckless and also the reason that led him to his death. Most of the time his work and thoughts are reduced to his military experiences when in reality there is more, much more to him than just a guerrilla leader. Che is a man who asked of people to love more and to grow stronger without losing tenderness. 

Cubans hold him in high esteem, they all call him "compañero" ("fellow") and it's not for less. He had a vision of a free, just and equal society; he became part of the people. When Minister of Industries, he didn't work from behind a desk, instead he went on to the field, put on a hat and cut and collected sugar cane with his fellow citizens. He fought for what he had envisioned and his ideals are kept intact in the minds of millions of people. I encourage everybody to get to know the true Ernesto Guevara. In him you will find a humble man who was larger than life. A revolutionary whom at a very early age understood that his mission in life was to fight for those without a voice and doing so by any means necessary. 

As his friend and mentor Fidel once said, Che is no longer with us but he is present everywhere, wherever there is a just cause to defend.
 
- Diego Paredes

Cabildo Quiscuaba and Religion in Cuba

Walking down the winding stone roads framing Havana’s oldest communities, none of the students knew what our next site visit would have in store.  We were hungry and hot, weaving in and out of tourist packs and rickshaws attempting to keep file with the next member of our group located a couple yards ahead.  Like sheep in the city, we were both out of place and making very slow progress to an unknown destination on the other side of the capital.  Surrounding this colonial, larger than life structure that is the epicenter of political life, one could observe the social life that was all around it.  Taxis waiting for their next prospect.  Men taking a quick respite from the hot afternoon sun under the columns of an adjacent building.  Young adults talking in the park.  Glancing slightly upward, one can observe the architecture of old Havana as well.  At once, the observer can witness both the rich history as spoken through the articulate colonial design and the adverse poverty that years of shortages and dilapidation had inflicted.
                After the 40 minute walk, we finally reached our destination, Cabildo Quisicuaba.  This organization promotes participation within the community by providing classes to people of all ages in order to create a sense of solidarity and unity.  Dr. Enrique Aleman Gutierrez runs the organization and draws influence and financial support from various religious institutions.  This type of institution is rare for two reasons.  First, within the Cuban context it is rare to find a social outlet that is religiously defined and that does not receive funding from the government.  Secondly, while this organization is inspired by Christian tenets it is also influenced by the Afro-Cuban experience.  This manifests itself by infusing an afro-religiosity with Christian traditions.  After a quick question and answer session in the blistering Havana sun, our group finally took shelter inside Cabildo Quisicuaba’s main building.  The inside of this place had the feel of a cluttered museum.  What reinforced this sentiment was that we were advised to not touch anything and to not take any pictures.  Dr. Guiterrez spoke further on the spirit and daily operations of the organization as we moved single file through room after room as each passing room seemed to become narrower and narrower.
                The last room was the room that we spent most of our time in.  On the far wall was a large painting of the Virgin Mary surrounded by the 16 tenets of the organization.  As Dr. Gutierrez listed them off one after the other, it sounded like a more comprehensive version of the Ten Commandments.  Two of the more interesting tenets were “Do not think you are wise when you are not” and “Do not reveal secrets” (please keep in mind that these are loosely translated).  After the introduction into the manifesto, we were invited to stay for lunch.  For lunch, we stayed in this room sitting on small wooden benches that had been stacked under a shelving unit.  Under the watchful eye of the Virgin Mary, we ate a generous portion of rice, stewed pork and chick peas, and a boiled egg.  I found the food to be just what I needed as the long walk in the hot, hot heat had sapped me of most of my energy.  Those in the group with dietary restrictions held their own trying to balance what the enlightened tourist likes to call “cultural sensitivity” with their own individual principles and preferences.  The collective discomfort was almost palpable as the group was visibly tired, cramped, and in some cases still hungry.  As we left, we all thanked the cooks for sharing lunch with us and thanked Dr. Gutierrez for inviting us into his organization and showing us how he is building his community.  It was one of the more interesting site visits we had had both in context and in substance.  The arduous route that had to be overcome to get to Cabildo Quisicuaba coupled with the unique approach to community development proved to be an experience that will not be soon forgotten.  Just for next time, the group should have a heads up as to what is to come…
- Daniel Costie

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Pizza for Breakfast


Preparing for my experience in Cuba necessitated my dismissal of preconceived notions and expectations. The dearth of information in regard to food particularly challenged my gastrointestinal preparation. Experience in other Latin American countries helped me a little bit as I knew not to drink tap water or raw vegetables. As a self-proclaimed hypochondriac I was fully prepared to abide by these “rules.” Despite my uncertainty, I new that rice and beans would be omnipresent on my plate.

Previous travel taught me that the American adaptation of a foreign country’s gastronomy typically results in tailoring cuisine for persnickety taste buds to such an extent that the end result is unrecognizable from its original form. Needless to say, I didn’t expect to be eating a lot of Cuban sandwiches. I also didn’t anticipate the range of scares and surprises I would find at every meal.

Breakfast served as the most static element to my dietary adventure in Cuba as each day began with eggs, bread, and a meat patty that a colleague of mine took quite a liking to. But, this rather inoffensive breakfast was accompanied by what would become a perplexing staple of our Cuban diet. Pizza. Much like other elements of Cuban culture, history, politics, and economy I eventually accepted this peculiarity, but never quite understood it entirely. However, over the course of the first week in Cuba, it became clear that country’s gastronomy is largely defined by availability of produce.

While we ate most of our meals at our residencia, we ventured out for lunch at establishments ranging from a fashion house that doubled as a restaurant to what appeared to be a room in a private home with a few tables and chairs. Regardless of the restaurant, the menu always acted as a guide more so than a guarantee. I learned quickly that an item’s appearance on a menu did not equate availability. As a group we became strategic with ordering and grumbled minimally when someone got the last chicken.

As I ate my way through Habana, I eventually abandoned expectation and stopped predicting what I would eat next. I shared my sympathies with those who had dietary restriction while accepting their invitation to eat whatever they couldn’t or wouldn’t. I learned to be advantageous and eat as much of what I enjoyed when I could, just in case something less enjoyable joined me at my next meal.

The moment I stopped paying attention to what I was eating was a memorable cultural experience that the entire group and I will likely never forgot. After learning about the history of religion in Cuba, we were led through the streets of Habana Vieja to what I recall was essentially a religious organization that was involved with community development. The organization invited us for an impromptu tour and lunch. After the quick tour we were led into a room at the back of a house where we were presented a lunch of yellow beans, rice, hard boiled egg, bread, and guava syrup (a dessert staple that we had already grown accustomed to). Despite the fact that we dined in a nontraditional dining area while seated upon stools reminiscent of a kindergarten classroom, the experience was rich and unforgettable…and for me, delicious. I can’t lie. I may have welcomed others’ leftovers too eagerly and certainly encouraged a friend to snag scraps of crunchy bread to dip in the guava syrup.

Traveling abroad requires digestive adaptation and a willingness to relinquish control of our dietary needs to those who eagerly prepare food that they are proud of and wish to share with visitors. While this certainly isn’t the case all the time, it certainly was in Cuba. Just as our stomachs adapted to a new diet, the attentive staff at our residencia quickly learned who was vegetarian, who welcomed extra meat patties, who needed that extra cup of coffee, and who devoured the pizza at breakfast.

Ultimately, I learned that the most important aspect of Cuban food is that you eat what you are given. In a country where ration cards determine what you can eat and how much you can buy, you learn to that necessity trumps cultural hypersensitivity. Observing the staff at the residencia it became apparent that they weren’t offended if you said you couldn’t eat something for whatever reason, but were visibly annoyed when something was left untouched on a plate. Perhaps, we can call this an instance of gastronomic diplomacy.

In retrospect, I hypothesize that Cuban food is similar to Cuban life and ideology. It’s beautifully simplistic without fancy accoutrements to distract you from your senses and basic needs. As a result, you appreciate the occasional surprise, like a buffet, much more than you would.

By Jeff Hutter

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Environment


In 2006, the World Wildlife Fund’s Living Planet report named Cuba the only country to achieve sustainable development.[1]  (As an aside, I have my own issues with the WWF, but that is another topic entirely.)  This distinction may seem like a huge honor, but it masks many issues and almost romanticizes the country’s plight.

On one hand, it feels almost insulting to give a country the sustainable development honor when its people live “eco-friendly” lives not out of conviction but largely out of necessity.  This is the case in much of the Global South; people do not hyperconsume carelessly as they do in our own throwaway culture simply because they can’t afford to.  I am not saying that once a country becomes wealthy enough to be materialistic that it should be, but the reality is that only when we can comfortably satisfy our most basic present needs do we have the luxury of worrying about long-term sustainability.

Something that Cuba is held up to the world as a model for is urban agriculture, a growing trend that is much needed at a time when more than half of the world’s population lives in cities and there are numerous benefits to locally produced, organic food.  I saw several organopónicos (raised bed urban gardens) throughout Cuba during my time there and was fortunate to visit one in Havana and talk with the agronomist who oversees it, Roberto Pérez Sánchez.  In addition to providing jobs to the nine people employed at that particular farm, the organopónico provides the community with a source of agrochemical-free produce (mostly herbs and other condiments, though fruits and vegetables with longer growth cycles are more commonly grown on city outskirts) and supports local economies.  There are also training programs for people to eventually work in urban agriculture.  They are great to have, no doubt, but it’s important to note that they emerged out of necessity during the Special Period of the early 1990s when Cuba lost 85 percent of its international trade due to the collapse of the Soviet Union.  To make matters worse, the U.S. tightened its blockade around the same time.


Despite the progress with urban agriculture, Mr. Pérez Sánchez noted that the organopónicos alone do not provide enough to feed the people of Cuba, as they are limited to fruits and vegetables.  Cuba still has to rely on imports for much of its other food and drink, including Vietnam for rice and New Zealand for powdered milk.  And despite Cuba’s socialism, multinational corporations are still able to find their way onto the island.  The Swiss company Nestlé, for example, is EVERYWHERE.  It even owns Ciego Montero, pretty much the only bottled water brand available.  Cuban officials have been addressing these issues, with an institute devoted solely to researching rice cultivation and a law passed in 2008 that allows usufruct use of state-owned lands, opening the door for more Cubans to produce dairy and meat for the population.

Another topic that came up in our group’s discussions was oil drilling.  As much as I believe in reducing humans’ dependence on fossil fuels and investing in cleaner sources of energy, I also believe that no one has any right to tell another country how to go about doing anything unless intervention is absolutely necessary (e.g. human rights are being violated).  Drilling for oil now doesn’t have to mean not being able to invest in cleaner sources of energy when doing so becomes more feasible.  As we learned from a young man who works for the Cuban foreign service, the country is working with a Spanish oil company on drilling and is going about it slowly and carefully, understanding the risks and potentially horrendous consequences both environmentally and economically, as the important tourism industry would certainly collapse were a BP-like disaster were to happen.  Since Cuba uses oil anyway (largely imported from Venezuela, with whom it has great relations), producing it domestically makes sense and could allow the money saved from not importing it to be put toward other services that people need.  Many in the U.S. are staunchly opposed to the idea of Cuba producing oil, citing “environmental concerns,” among other issues.  (Ileana Ros-Lehtenin, a Cuban-American Member of Congress from Florida, has called for sanctions against foreign companies who invest in Cuban oil production, although that has much to do with the electoral power of Miami’s exile community.)  Never mind that these politicians are from the same party that wants to open up the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge for drilling!

In the end, none of these environmental issues in Cuba can be separated from international politics.  The blockade plays a major role in so many aspects of life, and as ridiculous as I believe the half century-old restrictions are, I can’t help but feel like it has its benefits, both practical and symbolic.  If Cuban are to start cultivating rice on a larger scale than they currently do, for example, then cheap imports from the U.S. would certainly undermine that (although Cuba does already import food from the U.S. under an exception to the embargo).  The availability of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides would offer no guarantee that farmers would not use them to increase yields.  Furthermore, Cuba has been able to survive and in many ways, thrive despite the restrictions, so this also sends a strong message to the world against U.S. domination and hegemony, a message that deserves to be heard.  That said, there are countless reasons to lift the blockade, and for Cuba to succumb to the same negative effects that other countries that have traded freely with the U.S. have experienced, much more would have to change than just the trade restrictions.  It will be interesting to see how these issues continue to play out in the years and decades to come.

- Sonia Saini


[1] The report can be viewed here: assets.panda.org/downloads/living_planet_report.pdf

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

the Cuban Literacy Campaign: "If you know, teach. If you don't know, learn!"



Education and the development of human capital is a major priority for the Cuban government. After the Cuban Revolution in 1959, the country suffered from a mass exodus of professors and intellectuals. A nation-wide program, known as the Literacy Campaign of 1961, was thus instituted in response to this brain drain. More than 250,000 literate adults and children, some as young as 11 years old, formed brigades of people, or brigadistas and traveled throughout the countryside to teacher their fellow Cubans. They were specifically trained in teaching skills and techniques. The motto of the campaign was, "If you know, teach, if you don't known, learn." These teachers offered their services as volunteers, receiving room and board in return for the classes they taught. They would worked alongside their students on farms and in the sugar cane fields during the day and teach classes at night. Eleven months after the start of this campaign, illiteracy was reduced to 3.9%. The end of the campaign was celebrated on December 22, 1961, becoming one of the most impressive accomplishments of the Cuban Revolution. Though the Literacy Campaign has ended, the promotion of education as a central component of development and the teaching skills used during this campaign continued throughout the following decades. Today, Cuba boasts an illiteracy rate of less than one percent.

While in Cuba, we had the opportunity to visit the Museum for the Study of the Literacy Brigade. Our tour guide explained to us the history of the movement. We were guided through exhibits of pictures, old school supplies used, and various academic documents. One of my favorite things to read were the letters that students had to write to Fidel Castro as a final assessment of their literacy. Our guide proudly discussed the great national and international support that the campaign received, with volunteers coming from countries throughout the world in order to participate. She also made a point to emphasize the negative impact that the US had on these efforts, namely the Bay of Pigs invasion, and their supposed funding of antirevolutionaries, who were later responsible for the murder of innocent brigadistas. She also told us about the export of similar literacy programs to poor countries throughout the world, from Latin America to Africa, which have had astounding success. We ended the tour with a quick documentary that showed testaments from the volunteer brigadistas, proclaiming the satisfaction and life changing experience that they had from participating in the campaign.

Today in Cuba, the curriculum for students is standardized at a national level with obligatory attendance from ages 6 to 11. All Cuban children complete the same readings and activities on the same day. Also, through progressive programs such as UNICEF funded community-based services and child care centers, 98% of children under the age of six receive educational instruction. For children, play and the arts are considered key components of education requirements, a stipulation that they happily accept. Specials schools exist for those especially talented in athletics and the arts. There are also specialized programs for mentally and physically challenged. Teachers in Cuba are well trained and receive a modest pay. Despite the importance placed on education and the great progress these programs have achieved, a great lack of supplies and resources is a major challenge to the Cuban education system.

A few group photos from Cuba


Aula Magna at the Universidad de la Habana (with U Habana folks Carmita and Laneydi)
(Fidel has given talks from that center chair just behind the table!)

A group lunch in Miramar... in front of the catwalk?!

 A couple of us in front of a train car derailed by Che and Cienfuegos in the Revolution.

Che monument and memorial.

Sonia, Brian, and Livia in the sugar plantation tower.

 
Jon, Livia, Prof. Lusane, Akosua, Christina, Danielle, and Shannon in Trinidad.

Check out that ride!

Caribbean waters.

US-Cuba Relations

Apart from the fact that we're actually here in Cuba and meeting with
students, professors, and distinguished hosts, we've also been
fortunate enough to have lectures on the topic we all wonder about:
US-Cuba relations. Yesterday we heard from a member of the Cuban
Foreign Service, followed by a visit to the Foreign Service Institute.
Meeting with the students, most of whom are our age, we got an
unfiltered vision into their reality.
These students have been born under the embargo (they call it a
blockade) and represent the next generation of diplomats who will work
to restore relations with the United States. Yet in talking with them
some of our own doubts and concerns were brought up as we headed down
to the waterfront to talk. I though that as students of the same
general age, we would talk about music, movies, or something else that
we could bond on. Yet I was surprised to find that in my small circle,
it felt almost as if we were continuing the lecture. This is why Cuba
is so great, etc. This is why the United States is bad, etc.

What my classmates and I are finding out is that it's not simply
enough to say we are the same age and want to improve relations
between our countries. There are ideological differences that still
remain, and because both of our parties have been raised to believe
something different, it's going to take a leap of faith for us to move
forward. Maybe it will only occur when both countries can admit to
mistakes that a reconciliation can take place. We've heard the issues
and have listened to both sides, and now we are left to think about
what we'll need to do in order to move forward amicably.


from Jon Brandt