Socialismo o Muerte

"Socialismo o Muerte!" Socialism or death. The banner hangs across 23rd Street in Vedado, a couple blocks down from Hotel Habana Libre. It is a banner of pride for Cubans who consider their home the last bastion of true socialism, alone in defiance of foreign imperialism and tyranny. For Cuba, socialism is central to the existence of the state and people. Virtually every sign in Havana highlights this fact, and plenty of Cubans are ready to point out to the visiting American the benefits of state-provided health and education.

The grim reality of "Socialismo o Muerte" is beginning to catch up with Cuba. As the country ages and the birthrate remains stagnant, Cuba will find it more and more difficult to maintain the social programs that are considered integral to its identity. The government-provided healthcare system will continue to grow more and more strained as the average age trends upwards and the state of Cuba needs to provide more care than it is able to. While Cuba's low birthrate makes for a lower quantity of education that needs to be provided by the state, the ever-increasing competitiveness of the global marketplace requires Cuba to provide increasingly high quality education if Cubans are to be competitive. Given how important socialism is to Cuba, these programs cannot be scaled back. "Socialismo o Muerte" does not provide the Cuban government with any flexibility, and as socialism becomes more and more difficult to sustain, it grows closer to the unfortunate alternative.

In order to secure hard currency and float the social programs that define Cuba, the government uses a unique, bizarre two-currency system. Tourist and luxury goods are paid for in an alternate currency which is pegged to the dollar and wholly separate from the peso that most Cubans use for everyday goods. This may be an economically sound choice for the government of Cuba, but it comes at a tremendous ethical and ideological cost to the ideal of the Cuban Revolution and what it means to be Cuban.

It is acknowledged that the double currency widens the economic gap between Cuban haves and have-nots, but it also has the danger to separate these two worlds much further. Farmers, professors, and doctors do not have the means to obtain the more valuable tourist currency, and therefore cannot obtain the goods that Cubans who earn tourist dollars can afford. The nightlife scene in Havana provides the most striking example of this problem- as more and more bars adjust prices to what tourists and Cubans earning tourist dollars can afford, going out becomes more cost prohibitive for Cubans that earn pesos.

The double currency has opened a chasm in Cuban society, and runs counter to the goals of a socialist state or any reasonable state in the twenty-first century. Until it is done away with, currency apartheid will continue to decide which Cubans will possess mobility and opportunity, and who will be left out.

American in Cuba: Unfamiliar Territory?

I disembarked from the chartered plane in Havana, Cuba without a complete picture of life in Cuba and without a complete understanding of what I should expect to see and experience once I arrived there. I knew about the blockade (embargo). I knew politically, the country was somewhere between communism and socialism. I knew that they had an impressive healthcare system that attracted patients and students from all over the Americas. Having been to the Caribbean and other places in South America, I could guess what the landscape would be like. While I felt as though I was entering unfamiliar territory, I appreciated being able to put together my own image of Cuba as I went along.

In my image of Cuban, healthcare, education, and propaganda are very important. Ironically, those topics are also important in my image of the United States. In Cuba they have universal healthcare and universal education at a time when in the U.S. both healthcare and education is expensive, and the value of higher education is being questioned.

In Cuba, images relating to the Revolution (which is seen as ongoing in Cuba), defending socialism, and honoring Che, are everywhere. Instead of the commercial advertisements that we would see in the U.S., in Cuba, they appear to be "selling" the Revolution. I felt inundated with government "propaganda". At the same time, however, I recalled how I would wait for a show to record before I watched it so that I could fast-forward through the commercials. I felt inundated with capitalist "propaganda." I even thought about how we as students are instructed to look for peer-reviewed sources and also to have a variety of sources, despite mainstream society often "selling" specific images.

From the outside of Cuba it seemed that Cuba is "sheltered" from other propaganda. To some extent, information is definitely screened and limited for various reasons, but through tourism (people from other countries are allowed to travel to Cuba) and education, other images do get in. Considering the prevalence of very strong opinions towards Cuba despite how little the average American knows about Cuba other than what we have been told, it begs to question the reliability of the information that we as Americans receive and if we are not also being fed our own propaganda.

4 Cities in 2 days= 1 Amazing Weekend

After a week of informative speakers, exciting activities and various experiences in everyday La Habana (Havana) life, the American University Cuba Troopers (as I have deemed the group) set out to explore more than the Cuban metropolis. Everyone was thrilled to hear that we would be visiting the cities of Santa Clara, Sancti Spiritus, Trinidad and Cienfuegos. Early Saturday morning, the group hit the open road starting our four city journey equipped with overnight bags, a knowledgeable tour guide and a freshly scented tour bus. 

City #1 Santa Clara

Santa Clara is a city that boast a rich history and cultural character but most importantly is home of the Ernesto Che Guevara Memorial.  So, as you can tell, the trip was off to a good start.  Our first stop in Santa Clara was the outdoor train car museum.  This outdoor museum is constructed of the original train cars that were carrying Batista’s soldiers and weapons to the city of Santa Clara.  Before the train could reach army barracks, the rebels (with help from the locals) successfully derailed the train, captured Batista’s soldiers and weapons which subsequently resulted in Batista’s flee from power and the country.  These train cars and the infamous bulldozer used to derail the train cars are national symbols of one of the most pivotal victories of the Cuban revolution. 

Pardon the brief history lesson on the Battle of Santa Clara, now back to the regularly scheduled detailing of our weekend trip.

Next we visited the Che Guevera Memorial and Museum. The museum was everything about Che… baby Che, scruffy Che, incognito Che, Che’s weapons, Che’s degree, Che’s asthma inhaler… you get the idea. Next we visited the adjoined memorial that held the remains of Ernesto “Che” Guevara and his revolutionary comrades.

City #2- Sancti Spiritus

We arrived to Sancti Spiritus as dusk was quickly approaching and the group was given a brief tour of the city. We visited the oldest bridge in Cuba, interacted with local Cuban children, bought some Cuban street ice cream, and made our way back to our luxurious hotel. 

Our hotel was located at the central plaza of the city.  At exactly 9pm, speakers placed in the plaza began playing music non- stop until 2 am in the morning.   There was literally a party in the streets.  After we all convened at the hotel’s rooftop bar, the group ventured out to experience the Cuban Weekend Night Life. Some danced the night away, some did Cuban karaoke, some went to a Cuban punk rock concert, some slept, some had moonwalking competitions in the plaza, but all thoroughly enjoyed their one night in Sancti Spiritus.  

City #3 Trinidad

Sunday morning we traveled to Trinidad which was a group favorite [city]. The city was vibrant with colors and culture catching our eyes at every corner. We all enjoyed and needed that change of scenery. First we visited the Sugar Mill Valley where we climbed the watch tower. It was breathtaking. Climbing what seemed to be an infinite amount of steps was literally breath taking but once at the top the view was beautiful. After leaving the Sugar Mill Valley, we visited a famous Cuban tavern, La Canchanchara and sampled the well-known Cuban drink, Canchancara. We had a little free time to explore Trinidad and then we took off for our last city.

City #4- Cienfuegos and the Beach

On our way to the last city on our tour, the group was pleasantly surprised with a VERY brief beach trip. Our beach stay was short, but 15 minutes on a clear blue beach with beautiful weather (in January) was definitely a treat. When we arrived in Cienfuegos we were given time to explore on our own. The city was very quiet and calm providing the perfect ending to our exciting marathon 4 city trip.  I think we all would agree that it was a great weekend getaway.

-          Akosua Dosu

Internet access in Cuba

Buenas Dias

We’ve since returned from Cuba. You may be wondering why the post-trip blogging.

Well, Internet service is a precious gift and not nearly as abundant in Cuba as in other countries. In fact, Cuba boasts one of the slowest connection speeds in the entire world. Using a satellite connection (as the new Venezuelan fiber optic cable is not officially being used) the entire country shares an estimated 245 Mb/s connection speed. For perspective, that is the equivalent of the home connection bandwidth shared by about ten apartments in a D.C. apartment building.

            To ration this resource, connection preference is given to academics, journalists, the government, hospitals, and tourists. This follows a best usage rationale, where people demonstrate a need for the Internet for business purposes (like an academic researching) and then get a level of access to address their need.

A professor at the University of Havana explained in her lecture that her home connection is split in a router with many other professors. This is a dial-up connection. She often finds that important work is done best in the middle of the night because fewer people are trying to work online. Much like sharing a router with roommates, if too many professors try to access the Internet the connection can take hours to do even the simplest of tasks.

This kind of access provided through the government is completely free for the users. Professors at the University of Havana do not pay for either their home access or the access in the office. Other people without the good fortune of having approved access through their place of employment, must find their access in other means. Less than 14% of Cubans have ever used the Internet.

For non-employment access it is very difficult to use as the price is very expensive and largely accessing the Internet lies beyond control choke-points. 

The main choke-point of internet access in Cuba is the currency itself. Cuban Convertible Currency (CUC) is designated for foreigners and people working in the tourism industry.  It is worth about equal to a US Dollar. The Cuban people are supposed to use Cuban Pesos which are worth 1/24^th a CUC. Internet cannot be purchased in Cuba using Pesos.  This means even if someone had saved enough local currency to access the internet, the internet café would not let them purchase time on a computer.

One of the biggest black markets in Cuba is the use of CUC by Cuban nationals to gain access to the internet and purchase other goods currently rationed by the Cuban government.  It is very expensive for a Cuban person to buy time on the internet at a hotel, as the prices are slated for wealthy tourists.

To remedy this, some embassies (particularly members of the European Union) and the United States Interests Section of the Swiss Embassy, offer free access to the public. The problem is that even this access may mean reserving a 2 ½ hour block of time over 2 months in advance to use the Internet.  

The sad irony in Cuba is that as one American University classmate updates a Facebook page and gchats with friends at home, somewhere else a professor is watching a digital hourglass as they download a journal article for class.

-Frances Cirenza

State Run Media?

One of the first things that one will notice when arriving in Cuba is the pervasiveness of government messages. Instead of a smattering of advertisements on billboards, the streets are cloaked with messages from Fidel, Ché, and the Cuban Five. In defense of socialism. Bush the Terrorist. Moving beyond still life, you will find cafes and bus stops ripe with rich conversation on the ideals of the Cuban nation. Unfortunately, for Cubans, the media belongs to the government, and thus the ideas that fill the streets are not reflected in the daily news.

There are two daily papers in Cuba, supplemented with one national weekly. At 20 pesetas a piece (0.3 US cents), these 10 page papers are widely consumed. Senior citizens stand anxiously in line hoping to get one of the limited copies, and then resell it later in the day to someone who was unable to make it to the newsstand before opening hours. For most Cubans, this is the extent of their daily (read) news consumption. Once we left Habana, the access and supply to these papers become increasingly more scarce.

For those who do not live in the major port cities, they must rely on TV and radio for their government news. Though telenovelas (similar to soap operas) are the most popular shows the viewing schedule of these shows are contingent upon how much party news is on the agenda for any given day.

I do not mean to be misleading—not all media is government propagated. The black market provides plentiful access for foreign films and media. Small shops lining the main roads are walled with everything from Discovery Channel specials to recent episodes of the Big Bang Theory. Therefore, other medias can be consumed, but it is at one’s own risk: buyer beware. Consumption of this material is not authorized by the government and purchasing of it is a punishable offense.*

*Not actually advertised, simply the sentiments on the streets.

- Becky Walker

Cuban Flags and the U.S. Interest Section

On the first night of our arrival in Cuba we took a walk in the neighborhood surrounding the residence where we were staying.  Along the Malecon, the miles long sea wall, about 50 waving Cuban flags caught everyone’s attention.  We asked our Cuban guide about it and he said it was the US Interest Section behind all the flags and the memorial to the Revolution.  Most of us thought it very interesting that there would be such an exhibit of Cuban patriotism right in front of the US interest section unequivocally marring the beautiful view of the ocean.  This discordant undertone between the two countries continued throughout our lectures and discussions.

The Interest Section is only one of three such U.S. representative institutions in the world.  They are in place in countries where the US has no diplomatic relationship but still has some economic or governmental interests (hence the name).  The other two interest sections are in Iran and North Korea.  They carry on business like an embassy, but in Iran and North Korea they are staffed by the host country nationals and they represent more than just the U.S. but the EU and other countries that do not have embassies in place.  Cuba, on the other hand, is the only interest section that is staffed by US citizens and the only one that has its own building.  The other facilities have offices inside other embassies.  Even in Washington D.C., Cuba has its Interest Section inside the Swiss Embassy.  While in Havana, the interest section occupies the old US embassy but they can only communicate through Swiss Embassy letterheads.  This means that every letter is written on the Swiss Embassy stationary and has a brief introduction that the Swiss Embassy is has received a statement from the US Interest section and so on.

At the end of our two weeks the group had the opportunity to speak with the Deputy Chief of Missions, the title of the Ambassador who is not an Ambassador, John Caulfield and the Public Affairs Officer Gloria Berbena.  This was the first chance we had to see the Cuban relationship with the U.S. from the perspective of the U.S. government.  Before this meeting we had been to discussions and lectures about the Cuba’s policies with the US and Cuba’s thoughts on U.S. policy but now we had a chance to see the other side.  Caulfield spoke to us for about 45 minutes and then answered questions.  His speech touched on topics such as the arrest of Alan Gross and internet access in Cuba.  He said that Cuba development is stalled currently because to change there needs to be both political and economic change.  Caulfield also spoke of the embargo which is the largest issue for Cuba.   He said that Cubans use the embargo as a scapegoat for all their economic troubles when in actuality trade in Cuba would not look any different if it did not exist.  He ended by saying that the relationship between Cuba and the U.S. is at a standstill and that it does not appear that anything will change in the future.  He said that unless Cuba agrees to “keep their mouths shut” about human rights, media and freedom of speech there will be no negotiations or change in policy.  In conclusion,  Cuba’s relationship with the U.S. and future is ambiguous.

Ann Przybyl        

African Religions in Cuba

Before going to Cuba, I read a great deal about Africans brought to Cuba and enslaved in sugar plantations after Haiti’s successful slave revolt in 1802.   Slavery existed as early as the 16^th century and peaked in the 19^th century, and reached far beyond the confines of sugar plantations, but my story will start in the sugar fields in the 1800s and end in modern-day, contemporary society in Cuba.

Africans were forcibly taken from many regions in Africa, and they brought diverse spiritual beliefs and traditions with them.  They crafted drums, which were central to the practice of their religions, from barrels used to ferment sugar into rum. Drumming and dancing helped diverse groups communicate with one another and to find commonalities between traditions.  Life was harsh and short in the cane fields, which necessitated the constant import of new labor and meant near constant influx of new persons and ideas into enslaved groups on plantations.  The cramped slave quarters were situated away from the slaveholders’ home, so there was space for private practice of traditional religions, though persecution from the Catholic Church eventually drove these practices underground.

Slavery was formally abolished in Cuba late in the 19^th century, long after it was abolished in the Americas and in other European colonies.  African religions and traditions had a strong following on the island, and the beliefs were reinforced by new arrivals, some of whom were spiritual leaders in their homeland. Traditional drumming became part of contemporary music, traditional dance moves and styles fused with European (especially Spanish) styles, and the past worked its way into the present, bit by bit.  African traditional religions have been dismissed and repressed by dominant religious forces nearly everywhere; in Cuba, the Catholic Church spurned its practice.  In response, African deities were aligned with saints revered in Catholicism, which created the appearance of adherence to the faith while retaining their own belief systems.  One of these “mixed” traditions is called Santeria, and it is one of the most prominent African traditional religions present in Cuba today.

The practice of African traditional religions is strong in contemporary Cuba, especially in rural areas, and is diverse in origin.  The Palo Monte tradition originated with the Bantu people (who populated Central Africa, parts of Southern Africa and West Africa), the Yoruba tradition from West Africa, Fon from Dahomey (present-day Benin) and Nigeria, Abakua, Ifa, Santeria and other traditions have adherents on the island.  Each tradition has its peculiarities, but they all share similarities.  African traditional belief systems are open, which means they incorporate elements from other religions.  They are also human-centered, which means the gods or deities serve humans instead of humans only serving god(s).  All traditions include rituals to mark stages in the life cycle, from birth to death.  Each uses symbols and has sacred rhythms and rituals.  Though many aspects of the practice of traditional religions are private, an astute observer in modern-day Cuba can see evidence of its practice in even the most public places.

Live music performances are excellent opportunities to glimpse aspects of ancient belief systems originating in Africa and taking new forms in Cuba.  One can hear elements of sacred music through African rhythms played on Congas, bongos and bells, and see movements associated with sacred dances on dance floors and in the streets.  Cuba’s tumultuous history has contributed to a vibrant, beautiful present, which would be cold and empty without the influence of its African roots.

It was an honor to get a glimpse into the “other side” of Cuba, beyond the European influence and into the African, and to hear the musicians live whom I have admired for so long.  I long for the day when Americans can travel to Cuba freely, and I can delve deeper into the music and dance of an island that has preserved its beliefs and traditions in spite of, or perhaps in part because of, its immense suffering.  African traditional religions are central to this beautiful music, and deserve the same recognition and respect as their European and American counterparts.

Shannon Edam

Comandante Compañero Ernesto Guevara

He thought one has to be protected from the traps of greed without ever lowering the guard. When he was president of Cuba's National Bank, he signed Che on the bills to mock the money. For the love of people, he despised material things. The world is sick, he believed, where having and being mean the same. He never kept anything for himself, nor asked for anything in return. To live is to give, he thought, so he gave.

El Che was a man whose spirit lives and touches the souls of many around the world; and in Cuba, he lives as a symbol of freedom and strength. El Che was a man who said what he thought and did what he said. If you ask me, that is remarkable and very rare in a world where words hardly ever meet with actions. He defied power and money and risked his life in many occasions pursuing his ideals; reason why many consider him to be reckless and also the reason that led him to his death. Most of the time his work and thoughts are reduced to his military experiences when in reality there is more, much more to him than just a guerrilla leader. Che is a man who asked of people to love more and to grow stronger without losing tenderness. 

Cubans hold him in high esteem, they all call him "compañero" ("fellow") and it's not for less. He had a vision of a free, just and equal society; he became part of the people. When Minister of Industries, he didn't work from behind a desk, instead he went on to the field, put on a hat and cut and collected sugar cane with his fellow citizens. He fought for what he had envisioned and his ideals are kept intact in the minds of millions of people. I encourage everybody to get to know the true Ernesto Guevara. In him you will find a humble man who was larger than life. A revolutionary whom at a very early age understood that his mission in life was to fight for those without a voice and doing so by any means necessary. 

As his friend and mentor Fidel once said, Che is no longer with us but he is present everywhere, wherever there is a just cause to defend.

 

- Diego Paredes

Cabildo Quiscuaba and Religion in Cuba

Walking down the winding stone roads framing Havana’s oldest communities, none of the students knew what our next site visit would have in store.  We were hungry and hot, weaving in and out of tourist packs and rickshaws attempting to keep file with the next member of our group located a couple yards ahead.  Like sheep in the city, we were both out of place and making very slow progress to an unknown destination on the other side of the capital.  Surrounding this colonial, larger than life structure that is the epicenter of political life, one could observe the social life that was all around it.  Taxis waiting for their next prospect.  Men taking a quick respite from the hot afternoon sun under the columns of an adjacent building.  Young adults talking in the park.  Glancing slightly upward, one can observe the architecture of old Havana as well.  At once, the observer can witness both the rich history as spoken through the articulate colonial design and the adverse poverty that years of shortages and dilapidation had inflicted.

                After the 40 minute walk, we finally reached our destination, Cabildo Quisicuaba.  This organization promotes participation within the community by providing classes to people of all ages in order to create a sense of solidarity and unity.  Dr. Enrique Aleman Gutierrez runs the organization and draws influence and financial support from various religious institutions.  This type of institution is rare for two reasons.  First, within the Cuban context it is rare to find a social outlet that is religiously defined and that does not receive funding from the government.  Secondly, while this organization is inspired by Christian tenets it is also influenced by the Afro-Cuban experience.  This manifests itself by infusing an afro-religiosity with Christian traditions.  After a quick question and answer session in the blistering Havana sun, our group finally took shelter inside Cabildo Quisicuaba’s main building.  The inside of this place had the feel of a cluttered museum.  What reinforced this sentiment was that we were advised to not touch anything and to not take any pictures.  Dr. Guiterrez spoke further on the spirit and daily operations of the organization as we moved single file through room after room as each passing room seemed to become narrower and narrower.

                The last room was the room that we spent most of our time in.  On the far wall was a large painting of the Virgin Mary surrounded by the 16 tenets of the organization.  As Dr. Gutierrez listed them off one after the other, it sounded like a more comprehensive version of the Ten Commandments.  Two of the more interesting tenets were “Do not think you are wise when you are not” and “Do not reveal secrets” (please keep in mind that these are loosely translated).  After the introduction into the manifesto, we were invited to stay for lunch.  For lunch, we stayed in this room sitting on small wooden benches that had been stacked under a shelving unit.  Under the watchful eye of the Virgin Mary, we ate a generous portion of rice, stewed pork and chick peas, and a boiled egg.  I found the food to be just what I needed as the long walk in the hot, hot heat had sapped me of most of my energy.  Those in the group with dietary restrictions held their own trying to balance what the enlightened tourist likes to call “cultural sensitivity” with their own individual principles and preferences.  The collective discomfort was almost palpable as the group was visibly tired, cramped, and in some cases still hungry.  As we left, we all thanked the cooks for sharing lunch with us and thanked Dr. Gutierrez for inviting us into his organization and showing us how he is building his community.  It was one of the more interesting site visits we had had both in context and in substance.  The arduous route that had to be overcome to get to Cabildo Quisicuaba coupled with the unique approach to community development proved to be an experience that will not be soon forgotten.  Just for next time, the group should have a heads up as to what is to come…

- Daniel Costie

Pizza for Breakfast

Preparing for my experience in Cuba necessitated my dismissal of preconceived notions and expectations. The dearth of information in regard to food particularly challenged my gastrointestinal preparation. Experience in other Latin American countries helped me a little bit as I knew not to drink tap water or raw vegetables. As a self-proclaimed hypochondriac I was fully prepared to abide by these “rules.” Despite my uncertainty, I new that rice and beans would be omnipresent on my plate.

Previous travel taught me that the American adaptation of a foreign country’s gastronomy typically results in tailoring cuisine for persnickety taste buds to such an extent that the end result is unrecognizable from its original form. Needless to say, I didn’t expect to be eating a lot of Cuban sandwiches. I also didn’t anticipate the range of scares and surprises I would find at every meal.

Breakfast served as the most static element to my dietary adventure in Cuba as each day began with eggs, bread, and a meat patty that a colleague of mine took quite a liking to. But, this rather inoffensive breakfast was accompanied by what would become a perplexing staple of our Cuban diet. Pizza. Much like other elements of Cuban culture, history, politics, and economy I eventually accepted this peculiarity, but never quite understood it entirely. However, over the course of the first week in Cuba, it became clear that country’s gastronomy is largely defined by availability of produce.

While we ate most of our meals at our residencia, we ventured out for lunch at establishments ranging from a fashion house that doubled as a restaurant to what appeared to be a room in a private home with a few tables and chairs. Regardless of the restaurant, the menu always acted as a guide more so than a guarantee. I learned quickly that an item’s appearance on a menu did not equate availability. As a group we became strategic with ordering and grumbled minimally when someone got the last chicken.

As I ate my way through Habana, I eventually abandoned expectation and stopped predicting what I would eat next. I shared my sympathies with those who had dietary restriction while accepting their invitation to eat whatever they couldn’t or wouldn’t. I learned to be advantageous and eat as much of what I enjoyed when I could, just in case something less enjoyable joined me at my next meal.

The moment I stopped paying attention to what I was eating was a memorable cultural experience that the entire group and I will likely never forgot. After learning about the history of religion in Cuba, we were led through the streets of Habana Vieja to what I recall was essentially a religious organization that was involved with community development. The organization invited us for an impromptu tour and lunch. After the quick tour we were led into a room at the back of a house where we were presented a lunch of yellow beans, rice, hard boiled egg, bread, and guava syrup (a dessert staple that we had already grown accustomed to). Despite the fact that we dined in a nontraditional dining area while seated upon stools reminiscent of a kindergarten classroom, the experience was rich and unforgettable…and for me, delicious. I can’t lie. I may have welcomed others’ leftovers too eagerly and certainly encouraged a friend to snag scraps of crunchy bread to dip in the guava syrup.

Traveling abroad requires digestive adaptation and a willingness to relinquish control of our dietary needs to those who eagerly prepare food that they are proud of and wish to share with visitors. While this certainly isn’t the case all the time, it certainly was in Cuba. Just as our stomachs adapted to a new diet, the attentive staff at our residencia quickly learned who was vegetarian, who welcomed extra meat patties, who needed that extra cup of coffee, and who devoured the pizza at breakfast.

Ultimately, I learned that the most important aspect of Cuban food is that you eat what you are given. In a country where ration cards determine what you can eat and how much you can buy, you learn to that necessity trumps cultural hypersensitivity. Observing the staff at the residencia it became apparent that they weren’t offended if you said you couldn’t eat something for whatever reason, but were visibly annoyed when something was left untouched on a plate. Perhaps, we can call this an instance of gastronomic diplomacy.

In retrospect, I hypothesize that Cuban food is similar to Cuban life and ideology. It’s beautifully simplistic without fancy accoutrements to distract you from your senses and basic needs. As a result, you appreciate the occasional surprise, like a buffet, much more than you would.

By Jeff Hutter

Environment

In 2006, the World Wildlife Fund’s Living Planet report named Cuba the only country to achieve sustainable development.[1]  (As an aside, I have my own issues with the WWF, but that is another topic entirely.)  This distinction may seem like a huge honor, but it masks many issues and almost romanticizes the country’s plight.

On one hand, it feels almost insulting to give a country the sustainable development honor when its people live “eco-friendly” lives not out of conviction but largely out of necessity.  This is the case in much of the Global South; people do not hyperconsume carelessly as they do in our own throwaway culture simply because they can’t afford to.  I am not saying that once a country becomes wealthy enough to be materialistic that it should be, but the reality is that only when we can comfortably satisfy our most basic present needs do we have the luxury of worrying about long-term sustainability.

Something that Cuba is held up to the world as a model for is urban agriculture, a growing trend that is much needed at a time when more than half of the world’s population lives in cities and there are numerous benefits to locally produced, organic food.  I saw several organopónicos (raised bed urban gardens) throughout Cuba during my time there and was fortunate to visit one in Havana and talk with the agronomist who oversees it, Roberto Pérez Sánchez.  In addition to providing jobs to the nine people employed at that particular farm, the organopónico provides the community with a source of agrochemical-free produce (mostly herbs and other condiments, though fruits and vegetables with longer growth cycles are more commonly grown on city outskirts) and supports local economies.  There are also training programs for people to eventually work in urban agriculture.  They are great to have, no doubt, but it’s important to note that they emerged out of necessity during the Special Period of the early 1990s when Cuba lost 85 percent of its international trade due to the collapse of the Soviet Union.  To make matters worse, the U.S. tightened its blockade around the same time.

Despite the progress with urban agriculture, Mr. Pérez Sánchez noted that the organopónicos alone do not provide enough to feed the people of Cuba, as they are limited to fruits and vegetables.  Cuba still has to rely on imports for much of its other food and drink, including Vietnam for rice and New Zealand for powdered milk.  And despite Cuba’s socialism, multinational corporations are still able to find their way onto the island.  The Swiss company Nestlé, for example, is EVERYWHERE.  It even owns Ciego Montero, pretty much the only bottled water brand available.  Cuban officials have been addressing these issues, with an institute devoted solely to researching rice cultivation and a law passed in 2008 that allows usufruct use of state-owned lands, opening the door for more Cubans to produce dairy and meat for the population.

Another topic that came up in our group’s discussions was oil drilling.  As much as I believe in reducing humans’ dependence on fossil fuels and investing in cleaner sources of energy, I also believe that no one has any right to tell another country how to go about doing anything unless intervention is absolutely necessary (e.g. human rights are being violated).  Drilling for oil now doesn’t have to mean not being able to invest in cleaner sources of energy when doing so becomes more feasible.  As we learned from a young man who works for the Cuban foreign service, the country is working with a Spanish oil company on drilling and is going about it slowly and carefully, understanding the risks and potentially horrendous consequences both environmentally and economically, as the important tourism industry would certainly collapse were a BP-like disaster were to happen.  Since Cuba uses oil anyway (largely imported from Venezuela, with whom it has great relations), producing it domestically makes sense and could allow the money saved from not importing it to be put toward other services that people need.  Many in the U.S. are staunchly opposed to the idea of Cuba producing oil, citing “environmental concerns,” among other issues.  (Ileana Ros-Lehtenin, a Cuban-American Member of Congress from Florida, has called for sanctions against foreign companies who invest in Cuban oil production, although that has much to do with the electoral power of Miami’s exile community.)  Never mind that these politicians are from the same party that wants to open up the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge for drilling!

In the end, none of these environmental issues in Cuba can be separated from international politics.  The blockade plays a major role in so many aspects of life, and as ridiculous as I believe the half century-old restrictions are, I can’t help but feel like it has its benefits, both practical and symbolic.  If Cuban are to start cultivating rice on a larger scale than they currently do, for example, then cheap imports from the U.S. would certainly undermine that (although Cuba does already import food from the U.S. under an exception to the embargo).  The availability of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides would offer no guarantee that farmers would not use them to increase yields.  Furthermore, Cuba has been able to survive and in many ways, thrive despite the restrictions, so this also sends a strong message to the world against U.S. domination and hegemony, a message that deserves to be heard.  That said, there are countless reasons to lift the blockade, and for Cuba to succumb to the same negative effects that other countries that have traded freely with the U.S. have experienced, much more would have to change than just the trade restrictions.  It will be interesting to see how these issues continue to play out in the years and decades to come.

- Sonia Saini

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[1] The report can be viewed here: assets.panda.org/downloads/living_planet_report.pdf

the Cuban Literacy Campaign: "If you know, teach. If you don't know, learn!"

Education and the development of human capital is a major priority for the Cuban government. After the Cuban Revolution in 1959, the country suffered from a mass exodus of professors and intellectuals. A nation-wide program, known as the Literacy Campaign of 1961, was thus instituted in response to this brain drain. More than 250,000 literate adults and children, some as young as 11 years old, formed brigades of people, or brigadistas and traveled throughout the countryside to teacher their fellow Cubans. They were specifically trained in teaching skills and techniques. The motto of the campaign was, "If you know, teach, if you don't known, learn." These teachers offered their services as volunteers, receiving room and board in return for the classes they taught. They would worked alongside their students on farms and in the sugar cane fields during the day and teach classes at night. Eleven months after the start of this campaign, illiteracy was reduced to 3.9%. The end of the campaign was celebrated on December 22, 1961, becoming one of the most impressive accomplishments of the Cuban Revolution. Though the Literacy Campaign has ended, the promotion of education as a central component of development and the teaching skills used during this campaign continued throughout the following decades. Today, Cuba boasts an illiteracy rate of less than one percent.

While in Cuba, we had the opportunity to visit the Museum for the Study of the Literacy Brigade. Our tour guide explained to us the history of the movement. We were guided through exhibits of pictures, old school supplies used, and various academic documents. One of my favorite things to read were the letters that students had to write to Fidel Castro as a final assessment of their literacy. Our guide proudly discussed the great national and international support that the campaign received, with volunteers coming from countries throughout the world in order to participate. She also made a point to emphasize the negative impact that the US had on these efforts, namely the Bay of Pigs invasion, and their supposed funding of antirevolutionaries, who were later responsible for the murder of innocent brigadistas. She also told us about the export of similar literacy programs to poor countries throughout the world, from Latin America to Africa, which have had astounding success. We ended the tour with a quick documentary that showed testaments from the volunteer brigadistas, proclaiming the satisfaction and life changing experience that they had from participating in the campaign.

Today in Cuba, the curriculum for students is standardized at a national level with obligatory attendance from ages 6 to 11. All Cuban children complete the same readings and activities on the same day. Also, through progressive programs such as UNICEF funded community-based services and child care centers, 98% of children under the age of six receive educational instruction. For children, play and the arts are considered key components of education requirements, a stipulation that they happily accept. Specials schools exist for those especially talented in athletics and the arts. There are also specialized programs for mentally and physically challenged. Teachers in Cuba are well trained and receive a modest pay. Despite the importance placed on education and the great progress these programs have achieved, a great lack of supplies and resources is a major challenge to the Cuban education system.

A few group photos from Cuba

Aula Magna at the Universidad de la Habana (with U Habana folks Carmita and Laneydi)

(Fidel has given talks from that center chair just behind the table!)

A group lunch in Miramar... in front of the catwalk?!

 A couple of us in front of a train car derailed by Che and Cienfuegos in the Revolution.

Che monument and memorial.

Sonia, Brian, and Livia in the sugar plantation tower.

 

Jon, Livia, Prof. Lusane, Akosua, Christina, Danielle, and Shannon in Trinidad.

Check out that ride!

Caribbean waters.

US-Cuba Relations

Apart from the fact that we're actually here in Cuba and meeting with
students, professors, and distinguished hosts, we've also been
fortunate enough to have lectures on the topic we all wonder about:
US-Cuba relations. Yesterday we heard from a member of the Cuban
Foreign Service, followed by a visit to the Foreign Service Institute.
Meeting with the students, most of whom are our age, we got an
unfiltered vision into their reality.
These students have been born under the embargo (they call it a
blockade) and represent the next generation of diplomats who will work
to restore relations with the United States. Yet in talking with them
some of our own doubts and concerns were brought up as we headed down
to the waterfront to talk. I though that as students of the same
general age, we would talk about music, movies, or something else that
we could bond on. Yet I was surprised to find that in my small circle,
it felt almost as if we were continuing the lecture. This is why Cuba
is so great, etc. This is why the United States is bad, etc.

What my classmates and I are finding out is that it's not simply
enough to say we are the same age and want to improve relations
between our countries. There are ideological differences that still
remain, and because both of our parties have been raised to believe
something different, it's going to take a leap of faith for us to move
forward. Maybe it will only occur when both countries can admit to
mistakes that a reconciliation can take place. We've heard the issues
and have listened to both sides, and now we are left to think about
what we'll need to do in order to move forward amicably.

from Jon Brandt

Entertainment and Nightlife in Downtown Habana

When our group arrived in Habana, we quickly realized that our residence was near the happenin' part of town, or Calle 23 (23rd Street).  Calle 23 is the main street that runs from Vedado, the older part of town with historic mansion homes, to the famous hotels Habana Libre and Hotel Nacional.

Habana Libre was formerly the Habana Hilton (of the Hilton hotels).  However, after the Revolution of 1959, it was re-named the Habana Libre.  The hotel was then made famous after Fidel signed the first revolutionary decrees after the Revolution from this location. Hotel Nacional is famous for its majestic entrance, outdoor patio and bar overlooking the sea, and let's not forget...the scene from the Godfather.  But most importantely, it makes argueably the best mojito in town.

While walking Calle 23 from end to end, you will pass La Riviera movie theater and La Yora movie theater (across from Habana Libre on a section called La Rampa).  For a live show, you can attend the Cabaret at Hotel Nacional for 30 CUC, which blends showgirl style with Cuban dance. 

La Copellia, an ice cream park, is conveniently located amongst all these attractions.  La Copellia is every child's dream, with about five different ice cream stands to choose from.  And this ice cream is unique to Cuba. 

So while you can find a fabulous mojito or pina colada just about anywhere, some specific places are an especially good time.  The jazz club La Zorra y El Cuervo features live jazz music in a small intimate venue.  As a plus your cover charge includes two drinks.  Fresa y Chocolate (named after the movie of the same title) is another lively cafe that features a different type of music/DJ each night. 

To conclude, there is no shortage of activities in downtown Habana.  Between the theaters, hotels, clubs, and coffee shops (for a cafe con leche), there is more to do than hours in the day.  And Habana nights are something special...who needs sleep anyway?

By Melissa Moreland, Second-year SIS IC Graduate Student

Peso or CUC? The double economy of Cuba

One of the interesting features of the Cuban economy that our class
has encountered is Cuba's double economy. A double economy means
exactly how it sounds: there are two formal economies in effect here
and there are two formal currencies in circulation. One is the Cuban
peso and the other is the convertable peso (CUC, pronounced "kook" by
the locals). Cubans generally use the Cuban peso while foreigners like
us change our money into CUCs. Since Cuba's economy is cash-based (our
credit cards don't work here), we mainly carry CUCs to pay for our
meals and other necessities (no souvenirs!)

Because there are two currencies, we found that some merchants only
accept either the peso, CUC, or both. For the most part, we have been
able to use our CUCs in restaurants that accept both currencies. There
are, however, some places that only accept pesos and not CUCs. To buy
things in pesos, we would need to find a way to change our CUCs to
pesos. Some of us have simply asked for change in pesos after buying
something in CUCs so we would carry both currencies simultaneously in
case we need it. These different economies also mean that the peso and
CUC are valued differently: 1 peso is equivalent to about a quarter of
1 CUC. When we take a taxi in a car that accepts CUCs, we normally pay
about 5 CUCs for 5 of us to ride. In a taxi that takes pesos, however,
it would cost less than 0.50 pesos.

Cubans purchasing in pesos may not have access to the same goods
offered in the CUC market, therefore creating unequal access to goods.
Cubans who do have access to CUCs, like those working in the tourism
industry, may have greater purchasing power than those who don't
receive CUCs at all. This double economy could lead to a widening
income gap in Cuban society.

The CUC cannot be converted anywhere else outside of Cuba, so our
class is finding creative ways to spend before we leave...mojito
anyone?

By Livia Macias