Walking down the winding stone roads framing Havana’s oldest communities, none of the students knew what our next site visit would have in store. We were hungry and hot, weaving in and out of tourist packs and rickshaws attempting to keep file with the next member of our group located a couple yards ahead. Like sheep in the city, we were both out of place and making very slow progress to an unknown destination on the other side of the capital. Surrounding this colonial, larger than life structure that is the epicenter of political life, one could observe the social life that was all around it. Taxis waiting for their next prospect. Men taking a quick respite from the hot afternoon sun under the columns of an adjacent building. Young adults talking in the park. Glancing slightly upward, one can observe the architecture of old Havana as well. At once, the observer can witness both the rich history as spoken through the articulate colonial design and the adverse poverty that years of shortages and dilapidation had inflicted.
After the 40 minute walk, we finally reached our destination, Cabildo Quisicuaba. This organization promotes participation within the community by providing classes to people of all ages in order to create a sense of solidarity and unity. Dr. Enrique Aleman Gutierrez runs the organization and draws influence and financial support from various religious institutions. This type of institution is rare for two reasons. First, within the Cuban context it is rare to find a social outlet that is religiously defined and that does not receive funding from the government. Secondly, while this organization is inspired by Christian tenets it is also influenced by the Afro-Cuban experience. This manifests itself by infusing an afro-religiosity with Christian traditions. After a quick question and answer session in the blistering Havana sun, our group finally took shelter inside Cabildo Quisicuaba’s main building. The inside of this place had the feel of a cluttered museum. What reinforced this sentiment was that we were advised to not touch anything and to not take any pictures. Dr. Guiterrez spoke further on the spirit and daily operations of the organization as we moved single file through room after room as each passing room seemed to become narrower and narrower.
The last room was the room that we spent most of our time in. On the far wall was a large painting of the Virgin Mary surrounded by the 16 tenets of the organization. As Dr. Gutierrez listed them off one after the other, it sounded like a more comprehensive version of the Ten Commandments. Two of the more interesting tenets were “Do not think you are wise when you are not” and “Do not reveal secrets” (please keep in mind that these are loosely translated). After the introduction into the manifesto, we were invited to stay for lunch. For lunch, we stayed in this room sitting on small wooden benches that had been stacked under a shelving unit. Under the watchful eye of the Virgin Mary, we ate a generous portion of rice, stewed pork and chick peas, and a boiled egg. I found the food to be just what I needed as the long walk in the hot, hot heat had sapped me of most of my energy. Those in the group with dietary restrictions held their own trying to balance what the enlightened tourist likes to call “cultural sensitivity” with their own individual principles and preferences. The collective discomfort was almost palpable as the group was visibly tired, cramped, and in some cases still hungry. As we left, we all thanked the cooks for sharing lunch with us and thanked Dr. Gutierrez for inviting us into his organization and showing us how he is building his community. It was one of the more interesting site visits we had had both in context and in substance. The arduous route that had to be overcome to get to Cabildo Quisicuaba coupled with the unique approach to community development proved to be an experience that will not be soon forgotten. Just for next time, the group should have a heads up as to what is to come…
- Daniel Costie
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